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2006 saab9-3 2.0t cooling fan is parked after operation but the fan does not operate even if the cooling water boils

06 saab9-3 2.0t cooling fan The fan does not operate even when the right side of the cooling fan is turned on The cooling water does not work even if it boils Is it a motor problem? (left handle) Are both cooling fans the same size??

i have a saab 93 b207l no codes show but under heavy acceleration it judders and pops thru the rev range if i build up boost slowly its fine untill u have the pedal so far down any advice as im stumped

Thank you for the video, i just did a flush (6l dumped out). After the dealer and mechanics telling me that the GL350 didn't need transmission servicing now at its at 200,000KM and there is torque shuddering. After the flush, shuddering is almost all gone. I will drive a few more KM and see if I need to add additive such as Shudder Fixx. thanks again for the great video.

My car is a 2008 9-3 Aero Saab V6 turbo convertible - will this video work for reparing my power steering rack leak? I think it's coming from the bottom of the car. Guesing I need to replace the seal to the rack at bottom....any idea where I can find the correct seal kit ?? I really dont want to replace the entire power steering rack

You sound like a very knowledgeable mechanic 👍

Great job! Do you know if there should be a 12v on the distributoer plug when I turn on ignition car key??

wow. Great video, thank you very much!

Do you recommend cheap ebay ECUs or like a specific website? You can buy two cheap ebay ones for the cost of 1 on saab parts.

There is no such thing as "Lifetime" fluid, it's a marketing strategy to sell cars just like 10k oil changes. Once out of warranty, failure is inevitable

My Saab 9-3 2004 2,0t keep getting P0245 P0201 P0202 P0203 P0204 after around 1 hour of drive, then I send my old ecu to someone to clone it to a “new” ecu, got both back but the car started sound like a tractor and won’t rev above 3000rpm after “new” ecu installed, What you think the problem is? And how to solve it? Is the “new” ecu broken? Please help, it been 2 months now and can’t drive normally.

Is the gasket new?

Hi flying . I know this video is a bit olfd J ust a strage situation. I followed your video intructions to the left front driver lock. The reason was the random alarm issue especially when the car was parked under hot sunshine. Before proceeding to the repair all functions where almost ok, by means central locking/unlocking of all doors exept some randome sporadic individual doors failing to operate (lock/unlock) Alarm was engaging and disengaging by remote as well. After the repair (resoldering , greasing etc.) and while connecting the 2 door plugs the sirene started to sing and I stoped it by the remote (central unlock button ). That was the end of story. The lock is electrically dead now, all doors central locking by remote is dead No theft fucntion anymore (no flashing dush red light) and no steering wheel locking/ unlocking even if I through in the remote into ISM. The only sign while I'm using remote button for cental locking is the flashing of the left turning light for a couple of times. Windows central control is working but can't program the driver's window. The only door lock that sounds electrically active is the rear left (behind driver) which gives the motor sound while I lock it manualy . All other locks are dead. I diconnected negative battery pole but still the same symptoms. Luckily the engine cranks and can lock the car manually with the driver's door key (all other doors are manually locked by hand). Surprising the trunk can ulock by remote(!!) Any idea???

What about w204 2011 benz c300 without a89 code

This procedure just saved my 2008 Saab 9-3 2.0t. Now is running fine again. Thank you for this video to help us resurrect these cars to enjoy more. Big shout out to the TrionicTuning community for blessing us with the software and instructions on how to perform this.

I know this is a really old video but a wonderful demonstration for a tech who is teaching himself. Seeing your process was neat.

The 2019 Mercedes Sprinter V6 Diesel engine has the 7 speed with what look like two return lines, one that goes to the same spot on the left and right of the transmission. Are these both return lines? And should both be hooked up to the 1/2" hose for the flush?

One big question, why do you remove the whole door panel if that isn't necessary? Thank you.

Question; when setting your air flow plate stop pin, do you use the front of the air flow housing or the rear of the air flow housing to align your air flow plate? KE plates are at an angle, so front and rear are never at same point as far as aligning with inner ring of housing. Using front of car as front of plate.

Thank You Sir! You saved me a ton of money and it was easy! 2011 R350

Good video. Dear god are you working in a cave? The echo is incredible.

This is great!

Great video!

Anybody have a amazon link to the pump gauge?

thanks for the video! Tried this kit, the o-ring lasted for only a couple months...Will try oem this time

Thx man!!!!

nice video. is this the b207R? I got a 2007 2.0 and am doing timing thanks

Instead of starting the car why not just pump new fluid in on one side and the return line pushes out clean???

There is a tool to attach to the filter hole to push new fluid or low pressure air to get all the old fluid out. The valve body alone holds at least 2 quarts

Hi, thank you for such a detailed video! I accidentally got myself a set of rims with sensors, so looking into this project. I'm a bit confused though. Why would one have to splice the existing cables, if a factory made plug is already present at the right rear light? If it's not suitable for the stock TPMM (tire pressure measurement module) and needs your changes to work, what is it for then? If a cable and plug is there, I would expect it to be plug and play. Secondly, what's the year of this car? Subsequently, do you know if the part number for the module is 12791155 or 12846372? Lastly, do you know if/how one needs to connect the TPMS sensors in the tires to the module? Thanks a lot mate!

Hello. And whats about P2135 code? Faulty Throttle body or acceleration pedal?

Flying MechanicDIY is the man! I really appreciate all the articulated details and picture qualify. Every critical closeup is crystal clear! I have been longing for a complete flush for my transmission and had no clue which spot on the tranny's cooler return path i can access easily. a lot of mechanics doing 722.9 just drain the torque converter but that approach still leaves behind quite some old fluid in the oil cooler and lines.

I am about to do this on my own, so your video was extremely helpful. Thank you! 🤠🚑

One of the best tutorials I’ve seen well done and thank you 🙏 not a job to be rushed it’s w201 heart surgery this 😮 look forward to watching your other videos on the back of this 👍

I wish u had a video about how to programming Streering wheel lock module as well 😢

can you flash with the ECU off the car ? ( on table )

Does it have anything to do with errors p1681 and p2135?

I need help. Tried jumper wires. Didn’t do anything. What can I use to make jumper wires? Please help me.

Mine dont do noises, is normal?

Which is a socket (I saw somewhere that it is 15mm) for a screw that is tightened to 40Nm + 30 degrees, I suspect that this screw has loosened because I have a clicking sound when accelerating and braking.And the Clicking is heard only then, it is not there when driving and when going over bumps.

I have a question. My car has two tubes, one on each side of the transmission. Which should I disconnect to flush the driver's or passenger's side? Help please

Now after u are done the trans temp is 44 c if it hotter is there something wrong So if I drive it down the hwy it should only be around 44c let me know please

ADVICE: Use a magnet to fish the two sockets you need to remove closest to the pulley. You can rotate it to give you access to each bolt. It’s tight so you’ll need a 13mm socket and a small ratchet. You’ll have just enough room to crack it. There’s another bolt on the opposite side, you need to remove the air box, engine mount, engine bracket, throttle intake, and you’ll need to remove two Torx bolts to get the intake out of the way. Once you do all of that, you’ll want to put hose clamps on the main hose that connects to the power steering pump and if you’re working on an 08+ like me, you’ll no longer be able to remove the radiator supports as they are welded on, instead you’ll have to remove the upper radiator hose. Keep a receptacle handy because it’s gonna get messy. Only then can you pry something against the engine. Use a blanket of sorts to cushion the black crossmember above the radiator and then you’ll have just enough room to wiggle it out. From there, you can rebuild the pump. What this video does NOT show is that there are TWO larger seals deep into the pump. The kit I purchased contained those too. Power Steering Pump Seal Kit For 2006-2015 VOLKSWAGEN Crafter (KYB Pump) on eBay but the kit is SK 8765. I replaced and rebuilt. Good luck, this sucks be it’s absolutely do-able. It just takes some patience and the right tools.

If you are doing this on a w211 E63, disconnect the return line under the front bumper instead of at the transmission. The hose is flexible there instead of a metal tube.

This is the best video for this transmission. Thank you!

What kind of symptoms were you having before you changed the struts and shocks?

👏👏👏

Does anyone know where i can find the spring for the plunger?.... I tore my distributor apart and found there was none..... 78 928.

Are comments being deleted? None of them seem to stick?